Food for Thought: Stay in the Kitchen
There was a time when a chef’s work was solely in the kitchen; it was only when a diner asked to speak to the man wielding the whisk that he would, reluctantly, appear in the dining room.
But not too long ago, things changed: People began coming to restaurants for the chef — they wanted to see him, to meet him, to know he was the one cooking their food. The age of the celebrity chef had dawned. George Perrier was a master of this way before it became expected. He works his dining room, lavishing attention on VIPs and regulars, fielding questions about his cuisine and shaking hands, leaving tables feeling special, cared for, and a little bit starstruck.
In the past few years, though, this practice has filtered down to chefs of all levels of achievement, especially at new restaurants helmed by young chefs with big ambitions. But something has been lost in translation. On a few recent visits to some new BYOs, I’ve encountered unknown chefs appearing unbidden from the kitchen, clearly nervous, often sweaty, and occasionally reeking of cigarette smoke. Instead of feeling like a gift for the diners, these visits often felt like the chef was fishing for compliments: “I hope everything is to your liking,” they would say, and “How did you feel about your scallops?”
This was once the job of the maitre d’ or GM, or even, in smaller restaurants, the savvy host. But now that the chef feels pressure to make the rounds, the whole exchange can be as awkward as when someone asks “Do I look fat?” And, I think, it is meant to put the chef — not the diner — at ease. Who in their right minds will be honest with criticism in this situation? “Actually, chef, the scallops were rubbery and overcooked. Perhaps you should return to the kitchen and keep an eye on them.” If you didn’t truly love the food, you basically must lie.
The conversation always ends with the chef’s thanks: “We’re so happy to have you tonight. We hope you’ll come back!” Even this can be awkward. What are you, the diner, supposed to say? Are you supposed to thank him back? For his cooking? For his time? For his forcing you to make small talk as your $28 entrée gets cold?
What really makes diners feel appreciated is perfectly executed food and professional, gracious service. If a chef is successful enough, he’ll know when the time has come to leave the stove and greet his public. Fans will start requesting an audience. Until then, chefs should never assume that the rest of the diners want his company. Let’s hear what you think in the comments.
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:10 pm
i noticed this too but thought it was still rare enough to be a simple anomaly. i agree: they shouldn’t come out unsolicited. if you want to make sure everyone is having a good meal, use the host(ess). i actually liked how on some occasions i could see Ansill at the bar of his restaurant, just having a drink or a snack, and if anyone could stop over and compliment his cooking, but he never dragged it out of you. he’s got too much class for that.
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:14 pm
[...] At PhillyMag.com, I tell chefs how to behave. [...]
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:17 pm
I’m afraid I don’t feel the same way Joy Manning feels about talking to a chef about a meal. I personally love to meet the people behind the stove, all of them. I do believe that whenever someone from the restaurant asks you how your meal is, you should tell the truth. If something isn’t to your liking, it’s the perfect time to discuss it. Feedback is important for everyone. Maybe you misinterpreted the menu description. Maybe, unbeknownst to the chef, one of the ingredients was inferior. Of course it doesn’t work well if the chef is uncomfortable. But an honest and open conversation goes a long way toward building a positive experience for both the restaurant and the customer.
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:19 pm
This is a really interesting post and from a viewpoint I never really considered. While dining at the BYO of a James Beard nominee recently, I was a little bit surprised when the chef walked through the room and did not acknowledge our table – the only one occupied in the restaurant at that time. I am someone who pays attention to the details of where I dine, so I guess you could say I am one of the starstruck patrons when I encounter a notable chef. Now I realize that what I took to be a possible snub could just as well have been a chef who was simply modest. Great article!
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:43 pm
I have definitely been in the situation before where the food was terrible and the chef came by unannounced. I never returned to that restaurant again. I bet, however, that if the chef had never come by to sing is own praises, I would have given the place a second chance.
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:51 pm
I once had one of the best meals of my life at Lacroix when Jean Marie was still there. I noticed that as the diners starting to clear out around 10PM, JML was walking around checking the tables, smoothing tablecloths, adjusting flatware and occasionally stopping to chat with a patron. He wasn’t doing it for accolades or reassurances but just observing the scene, checking for imperfections and greeting the remaining diners with a brief hello and thank you. I felt like I got a glimpse of what makes JML such a great chef… perfectionism, excellence, humility, and quiet charm. I will never forget our interaction. Only wish I spoke better French.
September 22nd, 2009 at 3:09 pm
I like it when chefs come out to greet the patrons. I personally appreciate looking the chef in they eye and telling him that his food made my mouth happy.
Recently I was at one of the best spots in Philly – mind you there were only 3 tables occupied on a rainy night – and the chef greeted only one table and left us high and dry. Perhaps it was because we were under 30 years old, but I was not happy about it.
I’ve never been in a situation where the food was bad and I’d have to lie to a greeting chef, so until that happens, I like to meet the guy that made my food. It’s a part of the local experience.
September 22nd, 2009 at 4:17 pm
Here, here, Joy! Chefs belong in kitchens.
September 22nd, 2009 at 7:06 pm
What apparently bothers Mrs. Manning is the fact that anyone and everyone, working in the “back of the house”, feels like they have earned the right to walk around the dining room. That should not be. It belittles the chefs who have the real talent and skill, the one’s who have put their time in. They are the ones who deserve any accolades, and are most likely the ones who don’t venture beyond the kitchen door.
And for all the wannabe’s who do venture out, put on a fresh chef’s coat and apron, wash-up, and chew on a breath mint.
September 22nd, 2009 at 7:52 pm
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September 23rd, 2009 at 4:03 am
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P.S. – Sorry, forgot to tell you great post!
October 3rd, 2009 at 3:33 pm
[...] Food for Thought: Stay in the Kitchen | The Restaurant Club [...]